Hello... I'm New ...please Be Patient.

You should put your trick nickel in the grading forum and see what kind of fun that makes.

RK55. To what does that equal to in dollars? Lol. Sorry I'm confused.

At the current spot price you multiply it by 22.7 correct. so for every dollar its $22.70. my thought of 20x's face would be approx 90% of the silver value. I would use that as a guide....less than that offered to you I would sell on ebay.

also note....the 1965-1970 Half dollars are 40% silver. Maybe you already know that but just a thought.

I don't have an I phone....but someone else can probably help.

If you live in or near a town of any size there will be plenty of places that buy silver/gold. Most of them will offer 35-70% of melt but there will generally be at least 1 that pays 90% of melt. Counting fees you won't do much better than that on ebay. You should figure melt value on your coins & call around.

Do you have any halves?

honeywah,
If you do not need to sell in a hurry, please stay with us a while and learn.

Members: KEEP ADVICE SIMPLE!

Example: "spot silver" is the price of pure silver contained in a coin. It changes constantly.
BUT! Much like the commodity price of coffee or orange juice, we do not pay spot price for either of them.
Processing, transportation and profit margin come into play. It adds to our cost.
I use a 20 percent margin when selling bulk silver. More realistic.

Bad weather in South America? The middle men pay OVER spot!
A glut of oranges in Florida? The middle men pay LESS than spot!

Honeywah,

I am going to add some further advice. Sort your coins two ways:

--first, by size. Except for the Large and Small Cent (small cent = the penny we use now) and the downsizing of the dollar coin, our common-denomination currency has stayed more-or-less the same size for well over 150 years. If it's silver and quarter-sized, it's probably a quarter. If it's dime-sized, it's probably a dime. And so on. I certainly won't discount that at some point someone has handed you a real gold dollar or a 20-cent piece--I've heard wild stories from some local tellers and again, as a gas-station clerk I have some wild stories of my own--but while possible, the odds are low.

--next, take each pile of one size, and separate it by the picture--you'll have an easier time doing this with the obverse, or "heads" side of the coin, since the portraits vary widely and the reverses (tails) are . . . well, not "the same," but they often bear more resemblance to each other than the obverses do. This will give you a rough grouping by year--you'll only find Roosevelt dimes after 1946, for example.

Once you have these piles, you can start looking at entire groups of coins, rather than researching each individually. For example, you have a dime with the god Mercury* on it and the year is 1932. Pop it in Google and it should give you a whole list of dimes from about.com, where you can discover that there's really only one Mercury "key" date (1916-D) and the rest are mostly worth melt value (only the silver that's in them). You can research entire groups, set aside important dates, and this will save you a lot of time.





*It's actually Lady Liberty in a winged cap, but as you can tell by the fact that " Mercury dime" is the accepted usage, there are a whooooooooooooole lot of people who don't know that.