Moving To A New Type To Begin Collecting

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Mila_cent Pillar of the Community United States 1767 Posts	Posted 06/21/2007 6:47 pm Since completing my Jefferson's album I have been looking on which type to move on to. I have already begun with Kennedy's but since these are on going and still minted, I decide to maybe start with something that is no longer minted -with a shorter year span of mintage. Eisenhower's 1971-1978 (7 years) with a total of 31 coins and Peace dollars I know that some of you guys have the 2008 Red Book from our CCF mom and this is what I was going by. According to the Red Book - Peace dollars were minted 1921-1935 (14 years) with a total of 27 Peace dollars. My 1st question is: 1921 P high Relief 1922 P high Relief 1922 P normal Relief What does this mean-- high/normal relief? 2nd question: Where there no Peace dollars minted in 1929-1933? Why? 3rd question: 1934 D --book says there are 2 varieties -- small and large mm. Have a pic to share? If not, please explain. 4th question: 1935 S---book says varities with 3 or 4 rays below ONE. Have a pic to share? If not, please explain. 5th question: Which year/mm would be harder and more expensive? Or are most available and affordable to build a collection? Thanks, mila_ Report this Post to the Staff

Prethen Pillar of the Community United States 3233 Posts	Posted 06/21/2007 6:55 pm Hey, mila_.....there are only 4 20¢ for that series to be essentially complete. Or, my favorite, there are only 22 coins in the 3CN series (business strikes). Sorry...couldn't help plug 'em! Report this Post to the Staff
biokemist6 Bedrock of the Community United States 12437 Posts	Posted 06/21/2007 8:16 pm 1st Question The first year of the Peace dollar was minted in a high relief format- think of the raised design appearance of a medal. In hand, the relief is obviously different from any other year. Ignore the 1922 high reliefs- that is proof only. The business strike 1922 was the first to have a normal relief with a flatter design. 2nd Question Mintage was stoppd for a few years for the same reason that mintage was stopped on Morgans from 1904-1921--- too many were accumulating in Treasury vaults and they weren't needed. 3rd Question Denver started using a new mintmark punch in 1934. Dies that used the old punch had a small D and the new punch created a larger D on the dies. I do not believe that a premium is attached to either one. 4th Question Just a slight die revision and it happens to all coins from time to time. For example, look at the hair on a 1960s Washington quarter vs. hair from a quarter in the 1990s. 5th Question The key is 1928 which is a $400+ even in low grades. The semi-keys are 1921 $100-150 in circulated grades and the 1934S which is a conditional rarity coin(very few in MS and not many more in higher circ). The rest are easily available and affordable. Just remember that the biggest knock against Peace dollars is the fact that some of them are downright ugly even in MS with poor strike detail and lousy luster. A set of Peace dollars is pretty heavy and impressive. Just remember to look for coins with solid strikes and above average eye appeal. Report this Post to the Staff
just carl Bedrock of the Community United States 20753 Posts	Posted 06/21/2007 9:07 pm As to your original question about what to start next. Why not go for easier coins to find such as Mercury dimes. Even better yet Liberty Head Nickels. Since you are already into Nickels, why stop with Jeffersons. And don't forget the Shield type since only made from 1866 to 1883. If you do go for the Liberty Head Nickels, make sure the first one you buy is the 1913. Report this Post to the Staff
fengk Pillar of the Community United States 986 Posts	Posted 06/21/2007 9:58 pm I'm no expert on Peace dollars, but I'll do my best. The most expensive coins are going to be the 1921 and 1928. The 1921 isn't too bad in circulated grades (or even unc. for that matter), but the 1928 is going to set you back upwards of $400. The rest of the set is easily completed in circulated grades, and the unc. coins don't cost a lot either. The high relief coins were struck as experiments, and the attempt was abandoned in early 1922 because of difficulty striking. If you look at a picture of a 1921 Peace dollar and 1923 Peace dollar side by side, you'll see the difference immediately. Honestly, collect what you like and like what you collect. Thumb through a RedBook and see which series catches your eye, and go from there. Report this Post to the Staff
chevrolet454ss Valued Member United States 314 Posts	Posted 06/22/2007 03:50 am Hi, If you do the Ike dollar 1971 Thur 1978 with all 32 coins. Its going be expensive if don't have any coins already. 1. 1971 Thur 1972 p and d you cant buy them from mint sets . They are hard to find in good shape on the coins. They can be found no problem. 2. 1973 p and d you cant buy anywhere but an 1973 mint set to get them. 3. 1974 thru 1978 you can get all buying mint sets or if your Lucky getting the UN or bu coins someplace. Its cheaper to buy mint sets than single coins from dealers. These mint sets cost 6 to 8 bucks each. 73 cost 15 to 20 4. The 1971 thru 1974 silver bu coins were in the blue packs were not sold to banks. Most time you can buy set that cost 19.95 to 29.95 of blue packs. 5. 1971 thru 1974 silver proofs was in the brown boxes . They are cheap but the 1973 silver proof cost 19.95 to 30 compared to others. Those silver proof sets toned out bad in lot those plastic holders since they inferior. 6. 1973 thru 1978 Clad proof sets are needed. 1975 set is expensive. 7. In 1976 they had silver bu coins in red pack and the blue silver proof set is needed. Those cost about 30 bucks on those besides all mint sets and proof sets and book to build it. Greysheet wholesale the sets cost 180 bucks and completed sales on ebay on ones I seen sell for 185 to 285 dealers sell retail. Some dealers sell them finished in coin mags for 199 to 235 already built. They are hard to build since you need so many mint sets, proof sets. I know since I am building two them . I bought one set an person started and gave up for 50 bucks on ebay with 12 coins. I was lucky to have ike laying to start an second set. I spent 200 bucks I think and will have two books complete. I will have the remains from proof sets and mint sets I can use upgrade my nickel, dime, books. I will save the half dollars and maybe build an quarter book later. One last thing is those 1973 thru 1978 mint sets had lots toning problems under plastic. They dulled out or turned golden in the plastic. I hope that helps you decide if want to do an ike set or not. Chevrolet454ss Report this Post to the Staff
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