Coin Pricing Below Good

That's a great question and there's no simple answer. When I do some part-time dealing and end up with coins that fall into that range, I try to price the coin relative to Good. Basically, I take a guess. For rare (expensive) coins it might behoove you to check auction records and that could give you a good idea of value.

Coin prices are mostly guess work anyway. What is odd is that GOOD actually means lousy as far as I'm concerned. For example in the so called famous Red Book, GOOD is explained as Heavily worn, with design visiable but faint in areas. Many details are flat. And for ABOUT GOOD the coin is almost not a coin. I should think that GOOD should be changed to GARBAGE, POOR or JUNK.
As to prices. Those coins like all coins do not have a manufacturer's list price so anyone can charge anything. A dealer can say a coin is worth a cent and another dealer can say it is worth millions, slight exageration. If you want a coin, the price is high, if you really don't want it, the price falls accordingly.

For Non Key silver coins I always base the cost of Poor coins on bullion values .Either right at bullion values or slightly above.

for all other non Silver coins .


I use this forumula ,,

PO-1 = -2x the amount from G to VG

if a G-4 books at 8.00 and the VG books at 10.00 then the PO example would be 4.00 .

you will find coins that come to a negative number with this formula,, those coins really have no numismatic value and I usually give them away or throw them in a cull box .

Metalman

Thanks for that link. It's exactly what I was looking for. Yes, I am a member of Heritage. Though I was a little frustrated with them for awhile. I gave them my debit card info so they could have my card on file. They took $5 out as a test. It took them 3 weeks to put the money back.