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1797 8 Reales, Peru -- Is It Real?

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drk1's Avatar
United States
51 Posts
 Posted 09/28/2016  01:44 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I'm a rank newbie at collecting coins, and one of my first purchases was an 8 reales coin from Peru. I just recently became aware that many "pieces of 8" are fakes, and now I've begun to fret about mine. I am posting scans of the obverse and reverse, and some views of the edge. (As you can see the edge has been nibbled away at somewhat, and there is an assayer's test cut on the rim.) I would appreciate any observations, particularly regarding the likelihood of its authenticity (or otherwise) from any experienced forum members. Many thanks!



1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?
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vermontensium's Avatar
United States
16679 Posts
 Posted 09/28/2016  03:13 am  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
swamperbob is the real expert on these. He'll know immediately. Let's hope he chimes in soon ;)
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drk1's Avatar
United States
51 Posts
 Posted 09/28/2016  4:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I first learned of the problem of fake 8 reales on this forum, and of course swamperbob's name came up in the discussion. Then I googled 8 reales fakes, and his name popped up on a bunch of the hits. I do hope does chime in.
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Lucky Cuss's Avatar
United States
4883 Posts
 Posted 09/28/2016  6:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lucky Cuss to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
In the meantime, I'll chime in.

The upper edge of the reverse where the dentils appear truncated worries me. The top picture of the edge seems to show two circles with a larger one in between - evidence of a sprue?

As usual, my first recommendation is to get an accurate weight, and if that's in an acceptable range, then determine a specific gravity.

Colligo ergo sum
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jgenn's Avatar
United States
1156 Posts
 Posted 09/28/2016  8:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jgenn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This question comes up so often; perhaps we should create a sticky thread featuring swamperbob's 20 point checklist.
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drk1's Avatar
United States
51 Posts
 Posted 09/29/2016  01:36 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, I definitely don't see anything that looks like a sprue was attached anywhere. I was a silversmith for about 30 years. I don't have a good enough scale to get an accurate weight.
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swamperbob's Avatar
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5362 Posts
 Posted 09/29/2016  8:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
drk1 - Welcome first of all.

The coin certainly has a very nasty test cut which indicates to me right off that someone at some time was seriously suspicious of the coin.

Most test cuts to yield a piece of the coin metal indicate that the owner had the coin fire assayed (using cupellation) which was the best a "laboratory" could do in the time period when the coin was commonly seen in circulation. Today XRF is the best test.

The edge design is certainly poorly impressed on the edge and I can not locate the overlaps without reference to one of the faces of the coin.

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

Since you are familiar with my methods - first locate the two overlaps in the edge design - they must be EXACTLY opposite one another and of the same length. The Axis of the coin should be centered on these 2 points for two pictures. This allows anyone to check their length (number of segments) and their orientation to the face design (always have the same face of the coin appear in edge pictures). The angle has to be shallow under 30 degrees so the edge design is not distorted too much.

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

Doing the entire edge of an 8R sized coin will require no fewer than 8 pictures because both focus and apparent length distort quickly. However, if you want to check segment length along the entire perimeter 16 is much better.

If the overlaps are correct and if the edge design is appropriately added to the coin - then I would check using specific gravity. Since you do not have an accurate scale you may need to resort right away to XRF.

I would also suggest checking the test cut to see if there is any hint of an off metal core or a change in color of the metal.

Let me know what you find. The coin dies themselves look very good. It may very well be a genuine coin.

Edited by swamperbob
09/29/2016 8:16 pm
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colonialjohn's Avatar
United States
1757 Posts
 Posted 09/30/2016  09:49 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add colonialjohn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Assuming the double overlap is there and no other anomalies silver in its most oxidized state is black. This coloration of dark brown to blackish areas is a good sign IMO that this is a high alloy silver piece and typical regal. Just saying ... coloration is nice and original.

JPL
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drk1's Avatar
United States
51 Posts
 Posted 09/30/2016  12:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you much Mr. Swamperbob! and Mr. Colonialjohn. I can scan and post a bunch of edge pictures, but I'm afraid I never did understand exactly what is meant by "the two edge overlaps," or how to identify them. I could take eight pairs of scans at an angle and that would likely include the pair of overlaps, I guess, since it should show everything.

There is some edge damage beyond the test cut, looks like there has been some paring away of silver, and the edge changes appearance the more silver has been removed. The inside of the test cut looks like it's solid silver.

Assuming the coin is genuine, is it a desirable coin? I got it because the detail was good — you can read all of the PLVS ULTRA, although the letters in front of the columns don't really show up in the scan. The edge damage is worse than I expected, though, and the cut nastier than I thought it was going to be. I've been considering asking the seller if they would accept it back, perhaps in exchange for an upgrade. I paid $150 for it.
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drk1's Avatar
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51 Posts
 Posted 09/30/2016  12:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Also, how would I go about getting an XRF done? Is it expensive? I believe I read that someone on this forum will do them.
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colonialjohn's Avatar
United States
1757 Posts
 Posted 09/30/2016  6:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add colonialjohn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This piece looks better than a 90% genuine probability - I normally do free (P&H of $10 for U.S. collectors) XRF analysis on exotic or KOOL items. Consider it real. XRF analysis are normally $75/coin. You can also start carrying a magnet and a portable scale with you ... also purchase the GNL book. Buy the book before the coin.
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swamperbob's Avatar
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5362 Posts
 Posted 10/01/2016  01:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
drk1 I presume you have read some of the material on this forum regarding why there MUST be two overlaps in the edge design. If not I suggest you start there.

It is really just simple physics (geometry) because the two dies that apply the edge are parallel to one another. These two dies are forced together so that each die cuts into the circular blank placed between them.

Below are a series of sketches I developed to illustrate the procedure.



1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?

1797-8-Reales,-Peru----Is-It-Real?
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drk1's Avatar
United States
51 Posts
 Posted 10/01/2016  7:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Colonialjohn, thank you for the additional information. BTW, what does GNL stand for?

Swamperbob, thank you for the diagrams. They make the "two overlaps" concept perfectly clear. I was envisioning something completely different, which would have most likely required a violation of the laws of physics.

Thank you to everyone who "chimed in."
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 10/01/2016  10:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
drk1 The reference to GNL (Gurney, Nichols, Lorenzo) is a reference to our book "Counterfeit Portrait Eight-Reales, The in-real Reales" which I wrote and published in 2013. While I wrote the book - it was an overall joint effort. The numbering system we developed for 8Rs we refer to as GNL numbers. It is based on the date first and within a given date we gave a letter(s) to the individual Obverse dies and we gave numbers to reverse dies that used the same mint/assayer combination.
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wonghinghi's Avatar
Hong Kong
1270 Posts
 Posted 10/03/2016  05:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add wonghinghi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hi drk1, I think your coin is real.

I had made a discussion on two 1797 Peru 8 Reales as attached.

https://goccf.com/t/191360&SearchTerms=1797

My second coin is same as yours so I think it is real.
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drk1's Avatar
United States
51 Posts
 Posted 10/03/2016  1:12 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add drk1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hello everyone, and thank you for all the good information. I've decided that the coin is probably genuine, but the ugly edge and the test cut have been bugging me, so I approached the seller who agreed to let me return coin and I am going to upgrade to a prettier one. Then I'll get to worry about that one!!
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