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Replies: 12 / Views: 2,462 |
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New Member
Netherlands
22 Posts |
Edited by Erba 04/18/2017 9:12 pm
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Moderator
 United States
34397 Posts |
@erba, first welcome to CCF! Second, there should be some folks on this evening or perhaps tomorrow who can weigh in on this piece's authenticity. Third, yes please start a new thread for the other coin.
"If you climb a good tree, you get a push." -----Ghanaian proverb
"The danger we all now face is distinguishing between what is authentic and what is performed." -----King Adz
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1156 Posts |
If those edge design overlaps are on opposite sides, then it looks pretty good to me. I'm curious what it would cost in South America. I guess it would fetch $75 in the US. What city are you in?
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New Member
 Netherlands
22 Posts |
I'm in Arequipa at the moment and will be travelling throughout Peru and plan to visit Bolivia as well. The owner was asking SOL250,- for the coin which is about US$77,- I might be able to knock it down some.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4883 Posts |
First off, welcome.
You are to be commended for your excellent on the spot photos.
My impression is it's genuine, but I'd suggest you be certain that you're not violating any statute in "exporting" it should you buy it. I also don't know if it'd be subject to any duty when being rought into the Netherlands - probably not, but if so, obviously you should take that into account in negotiating a price.
Colligo ergo sum
Edited by Lucky Cuss 04/18/2017 10:59 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1757 Posts |
Don't have the patience like Bob to confirm 180* overlaps from PICS but black oxidation is always a "GOOD" sign IMO as silver in its most oxidized state is "BLACK." BLACK IS GOOD. <BG>. Good weight. 1808 from memory is the most common year of GNL Class 1's? Still I would buy it ... teach yourself the 180* (i.e., opposite side circle/square) overlap verification process for the edge when buying RAW in the field.
JPL
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New Member
 Netherlands
22 Posts |
Thanks for the answers. After reading up on some responses from swamperbob, I am now concerned about a few things: The die looks off centered and almost halve of the coin doesn't show dentils. The side that does show dentils it looks like they are not running all the way to the edge of the coin? Also looks like the edge was formed after the die? Another question: what should be the die offset angle when I flip the coin? Just a few items of concern i'd like your opinions about, before I go back and have a second look and decide to purchase or not.
Cheers!
Edited by Erba 04/20/2017 10:57 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1757 Posts |
In your bottom photo I do see the overlap. Is the other overlap 180*? A slight angle change from a perfect coin turn is not a concern IMO. Medal Turn is something else. Drastic? No - so no concern. If some denticles are off the planchet no big deal IMO. Its when there is a gap on the edge BETWEEN the denticles and the edge of the coin. Good weight. Perhaps Bob will chime in ... at this price its no bargain so PASS if you feel uncomfortable unless you want a souvenir of your visit.
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Pillar of the Community
Czech Republic
803 Posts |
Looks like an authentic, albeit corroded example.
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Pillar of the Community
Austria
566 Posts |
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New Member
 Netherlands
22 Posts |
Hi all, Went back today and did a few more tests: magnet test ok, Coin rings well, overlaps are indeed at 180* so I went ahead and bought it for $65,- First of my collection.
About the pictures: I just used my old samsung S3 mobile phone camera, set to highest resolution (3264x2448) and superfine finish (my standard settings). Then I cropped the pics and resized them to bring them under 300Kb with a picture resizer app.
Thanks to everyone for your input and advice!
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Pillar of the Community
Hong Kong
1270 Posts |
Hi, I have two coins of the same year. The first one is a real one and the second one is a contemporary fake. I address my points of view and see you agree or not. Any comments are welcome. Erba, I agree your coin is real when compare with mine. First coin : 26.80gr, 39.2-39.4mm, 2 oppo. edge overlaps, S.G. 10.186 (87% Ag), good ring test.    First overlap:     Second overlap:  Second coin: 26.88 gr, 38.8-38.9 mm, one edge overlap seen, S.G. 10.182 (81 % Ag), dumb ring, graffiti on the observe is suspected to be a test for silver.       Probably the only edge overlap seen:  Note also the portraits on both coins, they are different. The first portrait head is slightly bigger. The most notable clue to tell the second coin is a contemporary fake is the silver content. How do you think, guys?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1757 Posts |
Food for thought but yes it looks like I am promoting the Gurney book. At a recent show some collector I know that has been collecting NJ Colonial Coppers for 25 years says to me. I don't collect Spanish/American what should I buy a book on Counterfeit 8 Reales? Did you look at the first 100 pages of the book in the Table of Contents? Studying books on counterfeits such as in my case I have 2-3 on Ancient counterfeits as it helps you understand as in the case here a lot of the ancient methods of counterfeiting were just refined and brought into Medieval counterfeiting. More knowledge - more buying power - less mistakes. Always a challenge even with seasoned collectors ... CCCs also compliment well any advanced collections which is why Machins Mills coppers are in the U.S. Red Book.
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Replies: 12 / Views: 2,462 |
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