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 Replies: 35 / Views: 4,903 |
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Pillar of the Community
5464 Posts |
My main strategy/priority (at this point) is strictly condition. To compile an album with consistent eye appeal. Specific dates or mint mark are not an issue or priority. Although, some Carson City's would be nice to have. I just want to fill holes with decent/consistent/problem free coins. Ones that don't look cleaned or have major damage "if possible." (Obviously, within my budge) Key dates?...when or if I can. I started with the modern/cheaper coins. I'm now moving towards the higher end coins. Some folks start with the more expensive coins first to get them out of the way first. I was going to resurrect this thread but it's been killed. There's a lot of great opinions here: http://goccf.com/t/19624&whichpage=1 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8715 Posts |
I'm trying to get coins with original surfaces for all the holes. I much prefer the look of problem-free coins than cleaned coins. For some rarer issues, I'll go with coins that may have a light cleaning, but good eye appeal. However, the goal is to have most coins with original surfaces.
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Pillar of the Community
7234 Posts |
How's those 2 quarters getting along?  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1788 Posts |
I try to have the coin be of good quality, non-details, and good eye appeal. I compromise once in a while when I find something I needed with good eye appeal but maybe details grade.
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Pillar of the Community
 5464 Posts |
Quote:How's those 2 quarters getting along? I know, I know. I'm sitting here laughing. You're right! I told you it's hard to stay focused. At the moment I'm a little sidetracked with this 7070. However with that said, I have 1k sitting in PayPal waiting to the right ones to come along on ebay or Heritage. I even drive down to the last Baltimore show. As you know, I'm looking for them slabbed and MS. I need to get both for a total of 1k... Not easy. I was hoping you forgot about those to.  Thanks for asking.  SilverDollar2017, Ploopy, excellent points!  ! Edited by USSID18
05/14/2018 10:49 pm
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Valued Member
United States
295 Posts |
My number one priority for my slabbed type set is that all the coins must be problem-free. If it has a Details grade, it's a no-go. As far as condition goes, I just buy whatever is reasonably priced. I'm not paying three times more for a marginal improvement in condition, like for a lot of moderns where the price just spikes up at the registry-tier grades. Most of the Classic issues in my type set are circulated - some very much so - and I wouldn't mind going all the way down to Poor or Fair for some of the rarest types. For the moderns where $20 can net you a high Mint State grade, obviously I choose pieces of higher quality. One other consideration is that if a type was produced in silver and clad versions, I'll pick a silver one. So my Roosevelt dime is from 1964, and when I get around to getting a Washington quarter or a Kennedy half, I'll stick to the 1964 and earlier dates as well. I just love the look of fresh silver (and crusty old silver for that matter!). |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
I had an Australian type set 7070 equivalent 1855-1964, but in the range of VF - MS condition. Condition has to drop, when they are all key dates.
17 gold coins, and 40 bronze and silver coins, the bronze and silver types represented by the rarest date for type. (Except 1930 Penny, substituted a second rarest 1925.) Sold it at public auction in 1976, when I married.
Collection probably valued today at around U.S. $30,000.
Rebuilt a collection numbering about 2,500 coins since then.
No strategies or priorities any more.
If this is a strategy,
I am a cherry picker, across the whole of numismatics, except NCLT. That makes opportunistic bargains much easier to find.
If coins are always bought very well and kept for many decades, another valuable collection can be sold, before you die. You will need to be alive, so that the collection can be sold very well.
Same applies to 7070's but more regard needs to be paid to the condition when buying, and thus bargains may be harder to find.
Edited by sel_69l
05/14/2018 11:39 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I have a few detail coins in my 7070, but not really noticeable, and upgrading it as it goes, trying to replace with varieties that don't come easily. And gold page of course.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
533 Posts |
I buy whatever I can that's easily distinguishable. At this point I love handing the book to my nieces and nephews to try and stoke some interest. Details coins? Sure. As long as it looks alright and you can tell what it's supposed to be (think early coppers) I'll buy it and add it to the album. I can upgrade later when I'm not paying private school tuition, saving for college and taking my kids to Disney.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2335 Posts |
When I first started mine I decided to avoid any coins I might want to upgrade. That made progress fairly slow. It doesn't help that I also want to get coins for under market value if at all possible. I've since started adding coins that will eventually need to be upgraded but only if they are part of a lot/collection I bought for resale. My 7070 has the gold page & I'm 17 coins away from finishing.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
In my 7070, the 20th Century only issues are MS grades. The 19th Century are "Everyman" grades, no higher than AU58. I have acquired a few gold coins in the past but they did not stick around very long...I guess that I don't have the taste for gold coinage.
The link to my Virtual 7070 (PCGS) is in my signature block below.
Then there is my 7070 replica set which is actually in an album.
Edited by oih82w8
05/15/2018 08:47 am
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Pillar of the Community
5464 Posts |
For you guys with the gold pages.... ! Forgot to mention, no gold pages now or anticipated for the future. Unfortunately, it's just not a part of the financial equation. |
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Moderator
 United States
188213 Posts |
Mine is what it is and I am happy with it. Mostly middle grades, mostly consistent. Some uncirculated coins and a proof thrown in just because.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
My 7070 Type Set (completed) is exactly that. It's mine and therefore needs to impress nobody but myself, it's a type set, not a condition set and compiling it fit perfectly within my budget. That last part was a major subset of my strategy. Grades range from G to Proof. There are some sentimental coins gifted from people who are now gone or found in circulation during my YN days. I even have an obviously cleaned coin as an exhibit of lessons learned. It will soon be dismantled, without regret, as I prepare to exit the hobby and move out of the country within a couple years. So my strategy was to do what *I* wanted within my budget and the results blow away even my highest expectations that existed when I started.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2023 Posts |
When I started my Type set, I didn't know what really went into a 7070 -- I just started collecting. I'm not a fan of "raw" albums for this kind of collection so mine are all slabbed. I look for higher grades with decent eye appeal. Toning, if present, has to be consistent, pleasing, or at least not distracting. By "higher grade", I'm mainly looking for as much strike detail as I can reasonably afford -- my lowest so far is AU55 but I'm now back to the Bust era so I'm going to have to start looking at lower grades. That said, now that I've seen the Virtual 7070, my collection is not that complete. For example, I have only one Seated half dime. For my purposes, that is a "type". Same with the Shield nickel (no rays), Liberty nickel (with cents), and so on. As my buying slows down because these earlier coins are harder to come by (at least, any that appeal to me) I might go back and fill in some of these holes. Or, I should do the Virtual thing just to see what I have. |
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Moderator
United States
188213 Posts |
Quote:
needs to impress nobody but myself |
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Replies: 35 / Views: 4,903 |
Posted 05/14/2018 10:15 pm
