How To Identify "Proof" Coins?

Unlike Canadian coins, proof coins here are VERY different from business strike coins. Canadians have "proof-like" and "proof" that can be very difficult to distinguish - we do not. ALL modern U.S. coins that have proof characteristics are proof. The main difference is that proof coins have a very shiny mirror background. Most of the proofs from 1968 forward have frosting, or cameo on the devices. Proofs also have MUCH sharper detail.

Even on some of the old "flat packs" it's sometimes difficult to see in the cellophane but you can make out the mirror like finish in this example. Sorry for the scan, the coins look much better that this. You'll get the idea.

Thanks a lot for the images. That helps me see differences. The many variations in colors and tones of coins, and even strikes sometimes, even within the same years and mints, can be SO varied and different side by sides.

I remember reading something saying that proof coins are struck more than once to give them sharper definition/detail. Do I remember correctly?

Are all "S" coins "proofs"? I ask because I see guides list "S" and "S Proof" and I had thought that ALL "S" coins were proof strikes. Looks like not?

Canadian coins ... hmmmmm .... there are some variations I need to learn to spot the differences too between circulation strikes and proofs.

Variety may be the spice of life but sometimes it feels like too much spice with coins

Depends on the Year. I know alot of say wheats are S-mint but are business strike

Proof coins rarely, as in almost never, show up in circulation. Proofs are minted for collectors and generally sold in sets (though there have been some singles, like the 1999 SBA proof dollar). COntrary to popular belief, proof is not a look. It is a method of manufacturing the coin. Proof coins at the start of the 20th century were mostly satin finish and from 1936 through 1964 they were fully brilliant (cameo coins were an artifact, not the desired finish). When the mint began making proof coins again after quitting in the mid 1960s, they began striving for the ultra cameo look that has become to be associated with proof coinage. They eventually developed the ability to produce this look on large production runs by using new alloys and hardening techniques for the proof die sets. The numismatic definition of proof is a coin that is minted on a specially prepared planchet, using specially prepared die, struck at least twice, and then given special handling, usually by hand, and specially packaged and delivered to the collector. Some of the double Eagle proofs that were struck in 1907 were struck nine times with an annealing (heat treatment) step between strikes! The only thing that prevents the newer (since 2005) satin finish uncirculated coins from being proofs is that they are only struck once.

Thanks a lot for all that education about "Proofs" Clairhardesty. Thats all really interesting info and processes and is really helpful to know

Carmykle, I am having fun. Haven't really negotiated as yet, unless you consider some trading. I'll be plucking a few Canadian coins from my searches to send to a couple of people, trades, so far My own collections is still VERY small - well under $10 worth of pennies so far, and a small number of other denominations coins. But the pennies are multiplying quickly!

I admit I started buying rolls of other coins from the bank that stores don't mind receiving 5, 10, 25, Loonies and Toonies, so I can check them before spending them in the stores. You never know when a Canadian Mule might show up. I've also decided to stop spending the odd silver coins I find. The 1967 (Fish) dime still shows up as does the occasional other silver coin.

We do have a lot of anniversary and sommemorative types coins still show up. Wish I had started hanging on to all the colorized ones!

Many old prooflike coins are now being graded as proofs. I have an 1885 Liberty nickel that graded BU by PGCS in 1989, resubmitted for better grade and came back as a proof.

I see that I have been called out As papatony mentioned, your dime most likely came from a Mint Set if it is in a sealed square of mylar such as this [eBayItem]110924128314[/eBayItem]. If it does not look like that, then the packaging is most likely not from the US Mint although a picture would be needed to say for sure.

As for your 1896-O Morgan, that is an interesting example. The vast majority of 1896-Os were circulated so coins in grades of AU(About Uncirculated) and above are what is known as a conditional rarity- fairly common in low grades but it can be quite valuable if uncirculated. Of course, pictures of both sides would be needed to determine the grade.