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VAM_it

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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 12/30/2010  11:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
How did one reverse die manage to outlast ten obverse dies? Why were they switching them out so quickly? Many A1c obverses list die cracks, including radial ones which likely indicate a quick die death. But not all.

Yet all but 3 & 4 are vanishingly rare, and most have only the slightest of differences. Why is this?

Why should I not believe that VAM-3, which has polishing lines in front of the eye, is a later die state of one of the others known for chips and marks around the eye?

Is A1c a die or a hub?
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 Posted 12/30/2010  11:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have a sneaking suspicion that the answers to those questions might lie in the reasons for the rush job on the hubs and the die preparation, the inability to basin the dies given the depth of intaglio devices, the annealing of the dies, the chaos of everything associated with a new coin and its design..... I kinda doubt that the 7/8TF came into being strictly because the number of feathers needed to be changed.... I rather think that impending doom was the main concern for the changeover.... Despite whatever chips or cracks or anything else occurred on the obverses, I think that the keys to determining the order in which these obverses were paired to the A1c reverse are to be found on the reverse.... I really don't think that very many of these obverses lasted in the press an hour, and some only a couple of minutes.
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SeatedNut's Avatar
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 Posted 12/30/2010  12:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SeatedNut to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
my monitor must be going out or something because I can't make out anything on that Obverse picture except its a Morgan. Heck it may be my eyes


My eyes are much older than yours! That's why I download and "blow-up" the shots. That compensates for my old eyes. Here's what you are looking for: note arrow pointing the die chip above the eyelid and no polishing lines in front of the eye.



VAM_it
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aladinslamp's Avatar
United States
3076 Posts
 Posted 12/30/2010  12:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A very important "vamming technique"
here's the last few shots that should leave no doubt.. rare/common/commonly rare Anna....

VAM_it

VAM_it

VAM_it

VAM_it
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Bryan1315's Avatar
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14454 Posts
 Posted 12/30/2010  12:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bryan1315 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
How did one reverse die manage to outlast ten obverse dies?

Since the new discoveries of B1 Reverses have been found I have looked at ALL of my B1 Reverse Morgans to see if maybe some of the others were switched also. There are quite a few of them that once you see the attributes on the Obverse and see a long nock, most people do not look any further (an example would be the VAM-70) because since these were found I think there may be others in this small set that were done the same way
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 Posted 12/30/2010  1:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I really do not think that it would be unrealistic to imagine that there were a lot more 8TF dies (both obv & rev) used than anyone today might think.... I believe that some dies broke on first strike, and that several others never coined a coin... There might be a few that coined only a few coins.... I would not be at all surprised to see a new 8TF die pairing in the next 10-20 years come out of an old type set.... I also might not consider your B1 set complete for eternity for the same reason Bryan.... just keep your eyes open for that 87 or 88....
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aladinslamp's Avatar
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 Posted 12/30/2010  11:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
As you all have guessed, it is a VAM 4..It was a great coin for my first VAM as its loaded with doubling and cracks and die chips here and there.....It should be noted that in many cases the pictures are not good enough to show all of the coin and its pick up points..However some will be seen and with that one can start the search for coins that have those same attributes...As Seated Nut mentioned, copy the image if you can and then expand the picture to see other points of interest. In many cases additional clues can be found to narrow the VAM down so if one needs to ask for specific close ups to pin point the VAM...Russ mentioned one particular note of interest.....While the die cracks are not listable as a VAM by themselves..they are good secondary pick up points that can really help pinpoint the VAM number down.....
While the intent of my post is initially help invite the lurker into following along with pictures containing specific points of interest of the coin...points to help narrow the field, then my hopes are questions of interest (Pictures) you might need to reach the end goal if attribution...after a few posts like this we will move to the coin by itself and you can go from there.....Many of our readers already possess these skills, I would like to see as you see something noteworthy you post one of the clues you see, such as Near date, or high or low MM ect...that our lurkers can follow the clues...
I will shortly post another coin.....Thanks for taking part....
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 Posted 12/30/2010  11:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Since this is a teaching and learning thread, let me ask a few questions that occurred to me over a year and a half ago, but were scoffed at as these things did not fit the mold of accepted knowledge.

Are 8TF coins any different than other years with regard to attribution ? Do different rules apply? Can some things be taken for granted when attributing 8TF?

What sorts of things actually indicate and determine die progression?

How can we tell if a die has been polished or not?

On some MS coins, with extreme magnification, a directional 'grain' can be seen in the coin's texture; what is that?

Edited to add:

Let me add a couple more while I am at it:

Why is it unimportant to understand the processes and machines that were used to create the coins? Is it enough to see the product, and draw conclusions from that alone? Is this what is referred to as numismatic forensics, and knowledge is king?

Why is the history, the people and events that surround the creation of these coins seemingly irrelevant to what can now be looked at through a microscope? Is it enough to hold these bones in your hand and call it history? Do not these people and events have a direct relationship and bearing on the cracks on the coin?

Is it recommended that learning attribution be the first thing to be tackled and then work backwards form there, rather like learning how to read and write, without regard to what the words actually mean?

Edited by zeewool
12/30/2010 11:45 pm
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aladinslamp's Avatar
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 Posted 12/31/2010  12:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
An EXCELLENT question Zee, In other threads I would rather address this on a separate thread, HOWEVER,,this is the point and why I do not what your questions side tracked as this directly effects this thread...SO I will hope to introduce your first question, and answer as well as listen to others input:
Are 8TF coins any different than other years with regard to attribution ? Do different rules apply? Can some things be taken for granted when attributing 8TF?
I think in principal, no....BUT however one must as they study the 78 series, especially the 1878P 8 TF coins... The Basic general rule is, DATE and MINT MARK locations...IE such as Near,normal or far dates, and MM as high, low, set left or right ect....One must remember that this year had no stated date placement as they were all the same...for other years we would say..NEAR DATE...but no normal or far dates are noted....78P has OBV type 1(I) used with REV types A1,A2/A1, B1,B2 reverse types...Obverse 2(II)/I (over 1) , was used with REV dies A1,A2/A1, B/A, B1, B2, C1 and C2 reverse type....
now with all the hubba bubba and numbers that are confusing to the average onlooker...its simply a fact as you so well put Zee....the mint was very much under pressure to produce the most coins ever attempted , a new design that was not forgiving(FAILED) so more and more attempts were made to revise the current dies so that they could get 50,000 coins pressed before failure...
In common language...that is why we study the various A1C reverses such as the VAM 4 because in the 1878 series, date placement and no mint mark applies....one must focus on the OBV type, and the reverse type......First then the other pick up points that will attribute the coin....after 1878 the mint had it figured out and the OBV and REV changed little but for after some few years, and this is where the DATE and MM basic rules apply to seek direction to attribute a VAM...I'll stop here for others to reply...
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 Posted 12/31/2010  12:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zeewool to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I kinda doubt that we'll get any other replies on any of those questions Gene, other than possibly from Dave.... I don't remember if you have ever been in the military Gene, but I have known several guys who were, and I remember hearing one phrase from nearly all of them ("Hurry up and wait").... That is exactly what the mint was doing in late February of 1878..... All of the questions that I asked in my last post tie together, and to me have a direct effect on vamming as I see it, but maybe this should all be left to some other thread at some other time, as it is in direct opposition to what you are trying to do here on this thread..... I'll drop it all for now, and allow you to continue...
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 12/31/2010  01:03 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If I were at the keyboard instead of thumbing my Droid, I would be burying you right now.

I have the next 3 days off, however. Expect an in - depth reply, zeewool.
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Morgans Dad's Avatar
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 Posted 12/31/2010  01:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Morgans Dad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
ZEE states, " What sorts of things actually indicate and determine die progression?


I am going to attempt an answer to this, I am doing and have been so studying the progression of die failure.

I can say some things that indicate and determine die progression are, 1- the simple fact things wear and the tell all signs are there, if you know what to look for,Fatigue such as trailing letters, not the crisp original looking finished product we have all come to know, a crisp, luster filled cartwheel looking brilliant fully struck coin. The relief looks dull and life less over time, the fields also take on a dull looking finish, blurry and not as crisp a strike as it once was.

Another indication is the die cracks which start as a small crack in a certain spot, and you can actually see ( if you locate another coin) the progression "walking" and like water, it seeks it's own path, which I feel the first sign of failure on a die is a crack and it will, if caught in time, be removed from the coining process, polished, with finer and finer grit till it is ready to be rebasined and once cooled, placed back into production, and the process begins again. If not caught, the die will start a weakening that will not ever be the same till it explodes.
I feel, like welding, a person can have something welded, and if it is going to break again, and it usually does, it will NOT be in the EXACT same place, right next to it YES, and will again, seek it's path and left untouched, will become like a 1921 Morgan and have some very sweet, perimeter cracks and actually break the die apart, eventually.

Another factor or sign would be something like a die chip, a small piece of the die breaks either away or stays in place, these are easily seen as a jaggered line, which by no means is going to be straight and like the water, it too seeks it's own path which is more than likely from the pressure from the coining press, pounding away at the coins and actually assisting the die in the breaks walking around the die till either it is again, removed and repaired or left be, it would actually explode and look like a disaster for a coin.I believe the new B1 Reverse coin, of Kenneth's, AKA Bryan, actually has the look of a coins die that exploded either on his coin, or NOT long after, check out his still posted pictures, see the fields all banged up and that coin is a DPL finish on the coin, so the marks ALL around the coin are not from circulating, but, IMO, from the die's ultimate failure. I also enjoy following the breaks/cracks progression on a certain series of coin, you can see the breaks leading to Retained Cuds, blobs of metal forced into an area which use to be part of the die with a design feature on it or just watch as the breaks progress ALL AROUND THE COIN TILL.........

There are even more ways I am sure, for now, I need to stop, toooo much looking into the microscope and reading , I am drained........


**** Gene, a wonderful idea, I like the way you think, great insight.......
Edited by Morgans Dad
12/31/2010 01:33 am
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aladinslamp's Avatar
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 Posted 12/31/2010  01:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Actually I was in the military for 8 years, And I know too well hurry up and wait....I have been on the phone with Russ..So I haven't worked up the next VAM-IT...yet...but your question, I hope I have touched on, as 1878 does STRETCH the usual boundaries....BY the way all you lurkers,,,it does get easier.....One of these days you can converse with me Zee by phone....
My next post will still stand Zee's question as we vammer's are quite multifunctional. as well as focusing on the next VAM-IT....
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aladinslamp's Avatar
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 Posted 12/31/2010  01:45 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
wonderful insight..and that is what Vamming is all about....one must consider....It's a very deep subject. and while we seek an understanding on basic terms... its not understood on basic terms...there are too many variables, I think I could do better at poker stars........While this is a learning thread... and so it applies to all of us...I must imply, not to delve father that the original thread of VAM-IT...SO we don't split, but also INCLUDE, many of such questions...

SO MY next VAM-IT is this....

VAM_it

VAM_it
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aladinslamp's Avatar
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3076 Posts
 Posted 12/31/2010  01:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add aladinslamp to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What is it? details? pick up points? VAM NAILIERS?
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