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89-CC Morgan

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Pillar of the Community
throwbackid's Avatar
1283 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  10:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add throwbackid to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What did you pay for the coin? If it was under $1000 and it is authentic it is almost certainly a "problem" coin. Not saying by any means you stole it but at a price under what I listed is to good to be true. I would have asked the guy how he acquired it and as long as you feel good about his answer I wouldn't sweat it as you bought it in good faith. HAve it graded and sell it to me. I prefer PCGS lol
Valued Member
rob oz's Avatar
United States
60 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  11:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rob oz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I've heard nothing untoward in this thread yet. But please, future posters,, consider your words carefully.

?

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Honestly I would send it in to be graded as soon as possible if I were you.

I believe this is what I will end up doing.

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Do you know how it was acquired from the relative?
.
I know what I was told and that is this.... The owner of the coin was a lady. Her father has many old silver coin stored away in a safe and from time to time he will give her one. Exchanged from hand to hand. It is given to her so she can keep it and one day use it for her kids college fund. With that being said I assume the father has a general idea that it has some potential value but might not be aware on the full value. I don't believe he wanted her to sell it yet but obviously she did... Now whatever deal or arrangement they have going on on their end is their business. I don't feel the need to have to ask someone to justify themselves. This is the story I was told and I have faith that it is true. If anyone here doesn't, well, your entitled to your opinion and beliefs.

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Yes, it does. If someone offered me a coin as valuable as this with that story I definitely would not buy it without talking to the relative it was acquired from first.
You also have to realize that this forum and other forums like this one are filled with people that already understand that silver and gold coins are not just worth their weight in precious metal but that they hold a collector's value. Example of what I mean... My mother works at a bank and she knows about silver coins and that they potentially are more valuable than just the face value... What she doesn't know is the numismatic values... When I bought my first coin, a PCGS slabbed 1884cc Morgan for $200 and I showed it to her, she looked at me like I was crazy dishing out that much money for a $1 coin that only had a silver value of about $32 an ounce. So know she knows some are worth more than silver weight.

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This is a very interesting post, goes to the heart of several issues.
What issues?

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What did you pay for the coin? If it was under $1000 and it is authentic it is almost certainly a "problem" coin.
I guess everyone is dying to know what I paid so here it is. The coin guy I took with me brought his blue book. He looked at the value of an 89cc in XF condition. That value is $1900. Well.... I paid $1800. So I guess I bought it for around what a dealer would pay.
Rest in Peace
dave700x's Avatar
United States
10625 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  11:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dave700x to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
As I posted earlier is now imperative to insure this was a sound investment. Send this to one of the three top TPG services to confirm it is authentic and your choice of services should be driven by your intent with this coin. ANACS is sufficient if you plan to keep this and PCGS if you intend to flip it. Good Luck and keep us posted.
Valued Member
rob oz's Avatar
United States
60 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  12:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rob oz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
ANACS is sufficient if you plan to keep this and PCGS if you intend to flip it

So ANACS to keep
PCGS to flip
I assume the 3rd is NGC....
What would be the reason to use them?
Bedrock of the Community
basebal21's Avatar
13014 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  12:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
So ANACS to keep
PCGS to flip
I assume the 3rd is NGC....
What would be the reason to use them?


Id send it to PCGS personally or NGC.

The market premiums go PCGS NGC ANACS in that order. I dont see the value of slabbing it in one company to keep and potentially reslabbing it to sell. ANACS is fine for making sure its real and people say it because its cheaper to have the coin slabbed, but when talking about a coin worth thousands of dollars the extra 20 or 30 bucks to have PCGS slab it is miniscule
Pillar of the Community
smokeriderdon's Avatar
United States
3755 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  1:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add smokeriderdon to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Number one, there is NO reason to spend the money or have to join their little club to use PCGS or NGC. Simply send it to ANACS and there ya go. With a coin like that, it will carry itself regardless of the plastic surrounding it.

That argument aside, this thread highlights a lot of what I do not like about this hobby, and what goes on here with coins like this. And I can point to numerous other threads where the same thing happens. Flippant it's not real posts with no explanation as to why other than it's too good, it must be stolen, blah blah blah with the instant negativity but no supporting reasoning. Granted, there are plenty of folks who step up and give good honest evaluations that actually help the poster.

I almost did not click on the thread when I saw the heading and how many posts there were. I KNEW it was going to be like this. I mean SuperDave even felt it necessary to throw out a warning to head off the inevitable. But I did click, and made it a point to really look at the coin before I read ANYTHING at all. I saw absolutely nothing to tell me it is fake. Once I made my mind up, I then read the responses. And unfortunately I was correct.

THAT aside, Rob. Excellent pick up dude. You did everything right. You had someone else who kno .s accompany you for another opinion. You questioned the seller in a reasonable manner. You paid a fair but good price for an awesome coin. Great job! Now, just send it off to ANACS for the final resounding confirmation and you have a coin anyone would be proud to own.
Edited by smokeriderdon
01/06/2013 1:52 pm
Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  1:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 1893S to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree smoke rider, I was really turned off by some of the responses....GOOD PICK UP rob oz!
Valued Member
VACookey's Avatar
United States
155 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  1:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add VACookey to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I bought a set of S mint Morgans from Craigslist. 1878 to 1882, $25 each. The lady's father had died and she was selling off all his coins. I went there to buy something else but when I saw the Morgans I had to get them. Not everyone on Craigslist is a crook. You just have to be careful.

I think this coin looks fantastic and you got a great deal. Nothing about it screams fake to me. Congrats!
Rest in Peace
dave700x's Avatar
United States
10625 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  3:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dave700x to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The only reason I said PCGS over NGC is PCGS slabbed coins tend to do slightly better in the market (or at least used to). ANACS is fine for authentication and you don't have to join like PCGS and NGC($). There is no wrong choice to be made as long as you have one of these three companies verify the coin. ANACS will also attribute the VAM number regardless of which die pair it is, although it appears to be a VAM5 which is supposed to be the most common. PCGS and NGC will only attribute the popular VAMS, top100, hot50 and hitlist40. Once again, keep us posted and good luck!
Valued Member
rob oz's Avatar
United States
60 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  4:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rob oz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Number one, there is NO reason to spend the money or have to join their little club to use PCGS or NGC. Simply send it to ANACS and there ya go. With a coin like that, it will carry itself regardless of the plastic surrounding it.

Duly noted


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That argument aside, this thread highlights a lot of what I do not like about this hobby, and what goes on here with coins like this.

Disagreements happen in every forum. I get the same thing in the automotive forums. Guys post reply's with no reasoning behind their opinions and most of the time it leads to pages upon pages of useless info. I can see why a coin and topic like this can cause a controversial discussion but hey, if everyone agreed then life would be boring. HAHA.


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THAT aside, Rob. Excellent pick up dude.


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I agree smoke rider, I was really turned off by some of the responses....GOOD PICK UP rob oz!

Thanks guys.


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I bought a set of S mint Morgans from Craigslist. 1878 to 1882, $25 each. The lady's father had died and she was selling off all his coins. I went there to buy something else but when I saw the Morgans I had to get them. Not everyone on Craigslist is a crook. You just have to be careful.

I think this coin looks fantastic and you got a great deal. Nothing about it screams fake to me. Congrats!


Exactly. Things like this happen all the time. Most people just aren't used to something being that easy hence the too good to be true mentality. I'm guilty of this myself.

Example - Was watching one of the pawn shows on cable a few weeks ago. I enjoy watching to learn little things here and there. Anyways, a lady walks in with a raw 1924 $20 St Gaudens. She states right off the bat in the cut scene that she'd be happy if she got like $600 for it. So then she meets the pawn owner and he proceeds to give her a little history lesson about it. He tells her it's worth more than the $600 just in gold content and that it could hold a higher value and it must be checked out by a pro. So he calls in the expert and after examination he tells her it's an mint state 63 or 62 (can't remember which one) and the value is around $2500. That's proof right there that sometimes people just don't know what they have. Oh and she found it in the safe of a property she just purchased. Talk about LUCKY.

On another note, I just picked up some el cheapo loupes from the store and am going to look through that VAM page posted earlier and compare the coin to it... Don't really know what I'm looking for but I intend to learn. That's why I'm here.

89-CC-Morgan
Valued Member
rob oz's Avatar
United States
60 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  4:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rob oz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Got a question. So with this VAM business. These have to do with the dies and it specifies which dies were used. Correct? Are these VAM's specific to all the morgans produced? Hope that's a clear question.
Rest in Peace
dave700x's Avatar
United States
10625 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  5:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dave700x to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Check out VAMworld.com. Your life will never be the same..

These have to do with the dies and it specifies which dies were used. Correct? Are these  VAM's specific to all the morgans produced?

You are correct on all counts.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  5:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Got a question. So with this VAM business. These have to do with the dies and it specifies which dies were used. Correct? Are these VAM's specific to all the morgans produced? Hope that's a clear question.


OK, here's VAMming 101:


The VAM model is sort of a theoretical one. The majority of coin issues are separated by specific die pairs; this is the general idea as well with Morgans but given the huge mintages and advanced technology of the day, it will probably never be possible to identify individual die pairs for the vast majority of VAMs. Some have striking features like the 1878-P VAM-44; others have such low mintages (like your 1889-CC) that it becomes possible to separate specific die pairs.


Each year/mint starts with VAM-1 and counts from there by identified variety. The overwhelming majority are actually rather boring - date location, minute doubling, mint mark orientation, die cracks in specific places, all help to differentiate them and very few carry more than passing interest to all but the hardcore collector.


Given that each die design has specific weak spots and areas of high stress, it's easy to understand how many differing Morgan VAMs can have similar features - dies tend to crack in specific areas, and polishing marks tend to be somewhat similar.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Now, for your coin, as I'm finally able to look at your images on a full-size monitor. I see no glaring indication that it's a counterfeit; if it is, it's a very good one indeed. However, I don't see clear indication of any specific VAM, which is mildly disturbing since all die pairs for this issue are known. It most closely resembles VAM-3.

I'm guessing its' grade to be no worse than AU55, and its' value no less than $7000, likely rather more.


If it's ever going to be your desire to liquidate this coin, it is imperative that you have it authenticated by a grading service. The actual grade assigned isn't that important; the market for a coin of this value is populated by people who can grade for themselves. But, it must be authenticated.


I urge you to use PCGS as the service for this. Like it or not, the market considers PCGS coins to carry the greatest value, and in your case that premium could be more than $1000. Rather than having to join PCGS, you can contact a local dealer affiliated with them to "piggyback" a submission. Not all dealers do this, but given your location it's undoubbtable that you'll find one. As an Admin, I have access to your location (based on IP) and your registration email; I'm going to be contacting you offline with recommendations to this end.
Valued Member
rob oz's Avatar
United States
60 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  5:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rob oz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Check out VAMworld.com. Your life will never be the same..

I am currently looking at the VAMworld pages as we speak.


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However, I don't see clear indication of any specific VAM, which is mildly disturbing since all die pairs for this issue are known. It most closely resembles VAM-3.

Well then I hope maybe you'd be willing to school me a bit more seeing as I've rigged up the loupe I just purchased to my phone camera and am currently taking pictures that might help clarify what it could be... I'm trying to take the best and most in depth/close up pics that I can... You say VAM 3 and it's been stated possibly VAM 5. Is there any close ups that I could take that'll help possibly clarify things and also help me to better understand. Cause some of the stuff on the VAM page, like this for example... 5 (revised) III2 4- C3d (Far Date, Dropped C) () I-2 R-6 ... Is confusing.

I'll reply to the email once I finish with the pic taking.

Thanks a bunch
Valued Member
rob oz's Avatar
United States
60 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2013  5:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rob oz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This is my "PATENT PENDING" homemade phone loupe... LOL... One loupe with unknown magnification and a 10x on top of that one. Hopefully the pics will be a bit better.

89-CC-Morgan
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