I found for the Braided Head Types that the key to attributing them has more to do with the position of the date than anything else. It is not impossible to attribute coins as low as Almost Good for Braided Hair Types; however, for some dates with many Newcomb numbers, it helps to have the denticles visible.
I use the attribution guide books too, but probably my best attribution guide has to be ebay. For me, a photo is really worth a 1,000 words. When you can compare high grade coins side by side using photos, it helps to find those differences that are sometimes not mentioned in attribution guides that help with identifying lower grade coins. If you get stuck go to ebay. Type in the date and go through each Newcomb number. Pay close attention to the date position and the curls and everything around the date. You can rule out most varieties very quickly this way. Next, look at the stars, and see where they point. It helps to have a coin with denticles for this part of the diagnostic. Sometimes there are die breaks or doubled or repunched numbers or letters that help too. Normally, the reverse does not help much for attributing Braided Head Types, but sometimes it does. I normally use the reverse to confirm or as a last resort. Finding a die break can help a lot, but make sure it matches all the other points first. Sometimes a die break is visible or not or may form later. The dies state of wear can actually throw you off because something might have worn off or broken off causing two Large Cents to look different even though they both were minted using the same die.
For earlier Large Cent Head Types, you normally can determine everything from the Reverse even in low grades. This is because these coins were mostly made using hand made dies. However, I do have some problems with certain dates for Classic Head Types especially in lower grades. I also have had a lot of trouble with attributing Modified Matron Head Types (1836 to 1839) even in higher grades.
I use the attribution guide books too, but probably my best attribution guide has to be ebay. For me, a photo is really worth a 1,000 words. When you can compare high grade coins side by side using photos, it helps to find those differences that are sometimes not mentioned in attribution guides that help with identifying lower grade coins. If you get stuck go to ebay. Type in the date and go through each Newcomb number. Pay close attention to the date position and the curls and everything around the date. You can rule out most varieties very quickly this way. Next, look at the stars, and see where they point. It helps to have a coin with denticles for this part of the diagnostic. Sometimes there are die breaks or doubled or repunched numbers or letters that help too. Normally, the reverse does not help much for attributing Braided Head Types, but sometimes it does. I normally use the reverse to confirm or as a last resort. Finding a die break can help a lot, but make sure it matches all the other points first. Sometimes a die break is visible or not or may form later. The dies state of wear can actually throw you off because something might have worn off or broken off causing two Large Cents to look different even though they both were minted using the same die.
For earlier Large Cent Head Types, you normally can determine everything from the Reverse even in low grades. This is because these coins were mostly made using hand made dies. However, I do have some problems with certain dates for Classic Head Types especially in lower grades. I also have had a lot of trouble with attributing Modified Matron Head Types (1836 to 1839) even in higher grades.






















