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 Replies: 12 / Views: 2,913 |
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New Member
United States
2 Posts |
I was planning to bid on ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/230802197684 for a complete set of Buffalo nickels with 3-legged 1937 D. Can anyone help me determine if it is genuine? I am new here so I may not have done this correctly in which case perhaps someone could kindly help me out. Thanks and best, nervous2 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3184 Posts |
without looking at the auction, for anything expensive or key date, buy slabbed
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
The coin raw, IMO, looks okay. I would buy this coin, along with any other key-date coin, certified.
This is a lot of money for a "raw" set.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
I would stand clear of this one. 3-Leggers aren't something you buy raw. It'll probably go for stupid money, anyway.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10284 Posts |
At a glance, the 13 S TY2 and 21 S looks acid treated as do several other tougher dates.
For me, that's a big hunk of your cost.
It's a sellers way to get the most out of this set.
It is almost as though you are getting a lot of junk coins thrown in on a 37D 3 legged purchase.
I would buy this set as if I wanted that 3 legged nickel and go from there.
I don't care for restored dates but to each his/her own.
Is that 37D 3 legger worth the final bid plus $23.99 shipping? That is hard to say.
It looks genuine to me, but would it get environmental damage grade if TPG-ed? Maybe with the darkness and pitted area on the neck? I am not sure? I don't know where EV starts and how they make the call.
Look at other 3 legged nickels and see what they are fetching alone. The rest is a sales pitch IMO.
Edited by TNG
06/07/2012 07:37 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
I don't see any red flags with that coin.
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New Member
 United States
2 Posts |
Thanks to all who took the time to help me out. I may bid with the proviso that I be allowed time to submit coin to PCGS or NGC to certify authenticity. I have to see how high the auction goes. Again, thanks to all who took the time to help me. Nervous2
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3540 Posts |
Don't ask to certify for authenticity, ask that the coin be graded at a certain grade WITHOUT issue. Getting a "genie" (genuine) slabbed coin sucks when you are paying moderate sums of money.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
I'd say the three legger is good but not attractive. Probably cleaned at one time to get some of that black gunk off ot it. And as The nickelguy says a lot of the other better pieces in the set are acid date pieces.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10284 Posts |
As I write the "set" is at $610.00 with lots of time left. Somebody is going to end up disappointed if they ever learn about restored Buffalo nickels and this has already gone way past what I think it is worth gambling on. I'll bet it ends up at $1100.00 when it's over or more. You can get a better certified 1937-D 3 legged nickel for less than that with some patience. From the listing Quote:
If you are happy with your item and service please let everyone know. If you are unhappy for any reason please let us know. Due to the nature of lots and collections and the possibility of coin removal or switching we are unable to accept returns on these items. I wonder why they say that about switching coins.  I wrote the seller: Quote:
Dear jest*me,
Why are you not disclosing that the key dates, such as the 1913 D TY2, 1914
D, 1915 S, and especially the 1921 S are acid restored dates which makes
them worth a very small fraction of what one of the same in original
unaltered condition is worth?
I would like to see you answer this question
in the listing. Thank you.
-thenickelguy |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10284 Posts |
I think maybe looking at some of the other listings will tell you about this seller too. eBay listing title:1916 - 1945 Mercury dime Collection - INCLUDES very fine 1916-D & 1921-D!![eBayItem]330742317301[/eBayItem] Mercury dime General Grading Standards G4 Good:Letters and date clear. Lines and bands in fasces are obliterated. VG8 Very Good:One-half of sticks discernible in fasces. F12 Fine:All sticks in fasces are defined. Diagonal bands worn nearly flat. VF20 Very Fine:The two crossing diagonal bands must show.EF40 Extremely Fine:Diagonal bands show only slight wear. Braids and hair before ear show clearly. AU50 About Uncirculated:Slight trace of wear. Most mint luster is present. MS63 Select Uncirculated:No trace of wear. Light blemishes. Attractive mint luster. MS65 Choice Uncirculated:Only light scattered marks that are not distracting. Strong luster, good eye appeal.  |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Did you notice the very fine was not capitalized? "very fine" means these are nice, Very Fine indicates a specific grade/condition. It's a weasel way to give the impression that they are in better condition than they really are.
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Valued Member
United States
366 Posts |
Personally if someone says, "very fine" I am led to believe they are describing the grade of the coin. I wasn't aware that it has to be in caps.
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Replies: 12 / Views: 2,913 |
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Posted 06/07/2012 01:45 am
