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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,673 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
603 Posts |
Just wondering what a general rule of thumb might be, I have, for example a 1839 no drapery seated half w/ all liberty but the E and part of the R visible, several 08s IHC ranging imo G-4 through f-vf as well as some 09S and 31 s Wheaties, a couple would make AU and maybe 1 MS. What are your criteria
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
With a coin that "ought" to be slabbed due to popular concerns about authenticity or variety, my only criteria is "do I flip this at a profit after factoring the slabbing cost?" For all others, I personally use a value figure of $150, plus the abovementioned room for profit.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
919 Posts |
Depends what you are doing. I am building an Everyman's Collection (only AU58+ and lower coins allowed) PCGS registry set of Walking Liberty's. For that set I will be sending in several coins valued at $30. To others that is a waste but it is a goal and they are hard to find already slabbed. I plan to use the 8 free submissions I got with a year membership. Next year I will use the next 8 free and get all the cheap short set ones out of the way. If you want it slabbed get it slabbed.
Edited by tpg22 10/19/2013 2:51 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1002 Posts |
General rule of thumb for me is $100.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I decide what I THINK the grade is. Then I consult a reputable catalog (NOT the Red Book) to get a value. Next I go to the TPG website of my choice and determine what the total cost of slabbing will be; don't forget to include S&H BOTH directions. If the total cost is LESS than 10% of my estimate of the coin's value the I will submit it. Obviously if it's more than 10% I don't.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
For the cost of slabbing these days, especially PCGS, a coin with a value of at least $150 is my cutoff. I've sent coins to ANACS with lower values but they are also half of what PCGS/NGC charges.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
603 Posts |
I was just at a show today, after I posted and ANACS is there, 10 coins for 125$, the show goes on tomorrow, so I am going to send a few in
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1949 Posts |
My usual rule is $100+ for slabbing
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5208 Posts |
I had this one slabbed because it was one of my first coins I ever bought as a kid. It also helped that I had a voucher for free slabbing from ANACS. 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Interesting question, I have been trying to come up with the answer for a couple years now. As you can see from the posts, the answer would be different for each collector. For me Depends on each different coin. Some key date coins should be slabbed. For example 1909S VDB, 1914D Lincoln's, 1916 D Mercury dimes. One of the coins in my pile to be graded, is a 1932D Washington quarter. Most that look at it, will not say if it is real or fake, I will send it in. Also for me, some modern coins like 1998S Kennedy matte proof and the 1994/1997 matte proof Jefferson nickels. Plus the 2008 rev of 07 ASE. I like having coins like these in slabs, so there is no question about what they are, if I or my heirs wish to sell them someday. Other than these examples, I think I am with the others where $100 to $150 value would be a good place to start considering having a coin slabbed. Lastly I think if a coin, that I might be selling, would bennifit from being professionally graded. Sometimes a coin might be close to making the next grade. If there is a big jump in price for the next grade, it might be worth sending it in.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
603 Posts |
I have decided to go with a couple 09-S, an 09 vdb DDO and 3 31-s in Wheaties, 3 08-s IHC's and the no drapery half. here's hoping I am a very conservative self grader
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Valued Member
United States
315 Posts |
I've never done it, but logically it should be cost + slab cost (including shipping) X 1.30 = sale price of slabbed coin.
So you have to be fairly confident that the graded condition will add at least 10-50 to the value of the coin.
Super old coins will get this value from vg4, others need au, most modern coins need ms.
On any price guide, if you see blanks in the vg-au column, you need to be more careful.
It seems to me that the best strategy is to grade coins in bulk ( I hear $5 per coin is possible) and have about 1/3 the order be coins that you know will cover the cost of the stabbing for the rest of the coins, mostly MS. 1/3 are coins that are older but bring in a good premium at au, and 1/3 that you know are essentially gambles.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
In my opinion it is 0. By that I mean no coin should be sent for grading unless your planing on selling that one. Natually today it is almost a necessity to only purchase valuable coins in a slab. However, nowadays, even that is getting to be a chance. One of the main reasons people purchsed slabbed coins was for authentication. Today with all the faked slabs popping up, that too is becoming not so good a reason. Of course if it's for your own curiosity, then I say only a coin you feel is a necessity to have a professional grade it. I have no slabbed coins. I've purchsed some but always break them out since most of my coins all go into Albums.
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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,673 |
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