When Eye Balling A Coin...

Thanks sel69l.... To give a little more info the obverse has a awesome die crack error and its looks really good but the back of the coin has some nasty spots on it... I dont want to draw attention to it or I'd post the listing....

Generally speaking the Obverse is the side that will carry the most weight at a TPG or in raw grading. So, if say, a Morgan dollar is MS65 obv. and MS62 rev. it might get a MS65 or MS64 grade. If the obv. and rev. were switched in this scenario, Obv. MS62 and Rev. MS65, I'd expect a MS62 or MS63 grade. The Obverse pulls a lot more weight in the Morgan dollar series than in other series of coins.

But every coin is unique from a grading point of view. There can be other things that influence a grade, like strike, color, luster, toning, etc.

Things that should not influence grading but sometimes still do, die cracks, planchet flaws, etc.

Then there is the dreaded "details" grade from rub, wear, cleaning, artificial toning, tooling, re-engraving, (coin doctor tricks), scratches, hairline scratches, polishing, buffing, acid etching, and even natural "details" grades of corrosion, pitting, environmental issues usually.

When I first look over a coin, I'm grading or thinking of purchasing, I do a quick cartwheel roll in hand under a good lamp, looking for luster, and obvious marks, then after that assessment I will look closer with a loupe, quickly going over the whole coin, then coming back to PUPs (pick up points) Date, Motto, recessed areas, looking for varieties, RPD's Doubling, die cracks, Cuds, etc. finally checking for hidden damage or hits I may have missed. Last thing is to inspect the third side of the coin, you do know all coins have a third side, right? The Rim, check for seams, nicks, or other issues and damage there. When I do this on a Morgan dollar I usually take no more than 30 seconds to a minute, and only longer if I'm looking at checking VAM attributes. (Morgans I have a great deal of experience with), other coins I may take 60-90 seconds to examine. Only studying them longer if warranted and depending on what I'm looking at, rare or expensive coins - well I might study one for a long time 5 minutes or more before coming to a determination. But generally that's my method, learned from years, and years (decades) of study and looking at tens of thousands of coins in that time.

Bottom line, good lighting, a relaxed state, and a good loupe is what I need to be consistent and accurate. I'm certainly no expert, but I rate myself above average on most coin series, some series like Morgans I'd go up against any TPG grader (I may not win but I'd hit 85% or better) other series I have very little experience so I may even defer to others or use cheats like Photograde to help me out.

I'm with jbone. one thing I take into consideration is I grade each side on its own merit. if they are off more than 5 points, I pass. In almost all situations I go with the obverse but there are exceptions.

it'll take some time and practice and even at that point it will take more time and practice before you become that profecient at grading and spotting manipulated coins

if not for the CCF and the generosity of knowledge in the archives as well as real time feedback I for one would not have become the collector and still aspiring numismatist that I am today

go search the archives with keywords like "artificial toning" and "details grade(s)", you'll be amazed at the knowledge base you gain

ill go ahead and add the coin... hope this doesn't bite me in the butt.... some of you know that I purchased a 2 cent piece with a die crack much like this one so I want it to go along with it but the reverse has me on the fence... hope this helps put me on one side or the other... thanks, PEACE...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/29099836620....m1423.l2649

Well, I know nothing about US coins, but I like that Stylez!

OK, by British standards it's just Fine, but it has what I call 'eye appeal'. The toning ... it's possible to my eyes it's been cleaned a long time ago, but the toning is pleasing and to me a bonus. The scratches ... well, if it was a scarce coin or a decent price and it was a gap in my collection I could certainly live with it.

I don't mean to threadjack, but I had a similar conundrum a while back. The following coin has some scratching to the face and weakness/wear to the reverse.



However, in its favour are that it has the toning of a coin that has been in a collection for a long time. It's a scarce type and, for that type the King's portrait is better than average. And finally, it wasn't expensive.

And there's the point. A grade is only part of the story. How difficult it will be to find another, better, at the price, how appealing a coin is to you ... these are all factors that come into play. Because when it comes down to it you are the one that has to live with it.

If each time you look at a coin you think, "Yeah, I did OK there" it's a successful purchase! And if you think, "I could have done better, I kinda wish I'd waited" ...

Only you can decide which this coin will be for you.

Thanks for sharing the link. I like to see a coin that is nearly 200 years old and looks like it now and then! (That's a good thing by the way. I'm really not a fan of coins that look as if they were made yesterday and have spent the last century wrapped in cotton wool. Coins are meant to be spent and that their appearance hints at their history is one of the things I like about them!)

[/threadjack]

Up is right on the money with GSC. I've bought from them and while not totally disappointed, they do take VERY high end photography which can lend a bit more to the appearance than reality.

I do love that die crack and its up to you but the reverse is unfortunately damaged to a place that it only makes a detail grade

Are you willing to pay $150 for it?