Seeking Advice On Putting Together A Collection Of Standing Liberty Quarter

I would say a nice circulated set would be F-15 to EF-40 .
But bear in mind most of the other dates your going to need to fill that album is going to be very costly .
That's the main reason why I stopped trying to put a set together myself . If your coin budget warrants it go ahead and continue . The SLQ is a beautiful coin .

First....decide what grade you would like the set to be. Is it VG? XF? or ? Whatever your choice, stick to your choice, otherwise, one or two will stand out (good or bad) from the rest.

SLQ's and Buffalo nickels are, IMHO, two of the toughest series to grade correctly in modern US coinage. There are several series within the series, and, some branch mints used dies well past the useful life.

Seek the key and semi key dates first. Don't buy the first you encounter, whether in TPG plastic, or not.

STUDY, buy the book, and LEARN the grading on all of the dates and branch mints. There is usually quite a jump in price from VG to F or F to XF (and higher grades). You, as much as possible, need to become the subject matter grading expert for this series.....so...immerse yourself, enjoy, and please share your selections with the rest of the CCF members.

As a side note, my SLQ set includes examples from g/vg to UNC. Most are raw. Believe it or not, the background of the blue Whitman coin books really help to set off SLQ's.

Phil,

I completed the Mercury dimes, Walking Liberties, Flying Eagle and Indian Head, Lincoln Cents, V nickels, Bison Nickels, Peace dollars. Canadian Small and Large Cents and I didn't start Standing Liberty and that was because there are a few coins that I wouldn't buy so my set would never be complete. Good luck, but the set can and will get costly.

I'm now on 2 sets of those Quarters. Both sets are complete except for that lousy 1916. All are in various grades. With 52,000 minted of the 16, you would think there would be some available somewhere. It is a shame so many coin shows have been cancelled since it is always so easy to find those there and for decent prices. Except that 1916. Just can't find one anywhere.

I'm wondering what that means also. Are you talking about the difference between 1917-1924 grading and 1925-1930 grading?

Thanks for the link to Photograde!

You look at the price of the 1916, if that doesn't scare you off, then you have the resources to build the set. Frankly with the exception of the overdate, the entire rest of the set can be done in XF for about what the 1916 will cost you in Good.

Condor101, The prices of the 1916 and 1918/7-S are scary. I do think the others are possible for my budget since I have some other coins I can sell to finance the higher priced coins.

mendelman, I like your thoughts on the grade range to shoot for. At least an attractive fine grade for the more expensive coins and VF-EF for the others. In lower grades, these coins lose a lot of their appeal. No worry, I won't be buying very many.

In my younger years, I was anxious to fill coin album holes quickly without regard to the overall appearance of the set. Now I am more patient and picky. If I'm going to do this, I might as well make a good job of it.