Hello I'm learning about coins and what makes each one worth keeping and came across "bands" which seems fairly easy to understand but I just want to ask here in case I misunderstood. Would the below pic be a full band? From my understanding the only thing that makes it a FB is the complete bands top and bottom of the torch?
I'd say it's a pretty decent grade as well
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Roosevelt dimes are graded as Full Torch (FT), by the vertical lines, not Full Bands (FB), by the horizontal bands, and this coin does not appear to be struck sharply enough to qualify based on the photos, although I agree with IGE there is glare.
Here are 2 pics at different angles of the torch. Sorry my camera is bad at close up pictures.
As far as I can tell from magnifying glass it has all the vertical lines as well as both bands being prominent (outside of the pics my crappy camera takes). I didn't know about the FT though only the FB, thank you for enlightening me.
@djr, while I can't comment on the grade, I did want to recommend that you flatten the staples on your 2x2s. You don't want then to scratch or rub against adjacent coins.
"If you climb a good tree, you get a push." -----Ghanaian proverb
"The danger we all now face is distinguishing between what is authentic and what is performed." -----King Adz
The Roosevelt dime (the successor to the Mercury dime) features a torch on its reverse, with bands at the top and bottom. To qualify for NGC's Full Torch (FT) designation, both pairs of these bands must show full separation, and the vertical lines of the torch must be defined. Dimes do not need to be Mint State to qualify for the FT and FB designations, but it should be no surprise that most that qualify are Mint State. These designations are not used for Proof dimes, which are assumed to have been well-struck. https://www.ngccoin.com/news/articl...ading-dimes/
PCGS Full Bands Vs NGC Full Torch:
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So far I don't think so but the photos are not making it easy to tell based on that info.
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