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 Replies: 24 / Views: 3,560 |
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
I posted these pictures in the general forum, in a thread in which I was asking a lot of general coin collecting questions, but thought I might get a few more opinions and responses in this forum.. Here's the walking liberty 1921-D. Note that I don't think these coins have been cleaned, I'm sure it's possible, as I'm not a coin expert, but in the other thread someone raised the issue of the fact that they looked very shiny in my pictures, and circulated coins that haven't been cleaned should look dull and gray.. Well in person these coins do look dull and gray, and the reason they look shiny in the picture was because in most of the photos the lousy on camera flash was literally pointed right at the surface of the coin.   And here's the 1938-D   Edited by Joel A
04/29/2010 10:39 pm
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
They both look about F-15 to me. Great coins, and both ones I need!
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Valued Member
 United States
75 Posts |
yeah, I figured they were somewhere between F and VF. In person the 1938-D seems slightly nicer than the 1921-D, but they both seem pretty nice.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1490 Posts |
Thats a nice 21-D. Its hard to find nice Fine specimens. You usually see good to vg's out there.
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
anyone else have a guess/opinion?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1882 Posts |
Yes, I agree they are about F15 coins, and wouldn't hang a VF on either of them.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
Another vote for F15 - very nice coins - tough dates.
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
Ok, that's kind of what I figured too, my guess was somewhere between F and VF, so F15 sounds fitting, thanks!
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
so I went to go see another dealer today.. he said the coin is at least in "fine" condition, but then he said the scratch on the obverse makes it worth 30 or 40% of it's usual value.. he said that it makes it a coin that isn't "problem free" and that most collectors look from problem free coins. he offered 150 for the coin.. roughly 40% of what he said he'd buy an f12 walker for, $400
What do you guys think?
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Is the scratch he is referring to the one to the inside of the letter "T". The loss of value all depends on how deep and distracting the damage is. That is hard to gauge from your picture It does at least explain somewhat why the other dealer lowballed you, as now $200 doesn't look as bad for a scratched coin. I don't think we are going to be able to tell you how much the scratch will affect the value unless we have it in hand, or you get some better photos. It still should be worth significantly more than $150 imo.
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
yeah, that's the scratch he's talking about.. to be completely honest I hadn't even noticed it until he brought it up today, so that tells you a bit about how "distracting" it is. No doubt it's there, but not too distracting at all if you asked me.. but then again I'm new to this ;).
A scratch like that doesn't constitute a coin being graded "details" though, does it? I thought when a coin was said to be "problem free" that meant that it was genuine, and not cleaned.. he said this coin wasn't "problem free" because of the scratch.
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Quote:
A scratch like that doesn't constitute a coin being graded "details" though, does it? I thought when a coin was said to be "problem free" that meant that it was genuine, and not cleaned.. he said this coin wasn't "problem free" because of the scratch. A scratch will make the coin a "problem" coin in many cases, therefore the coin will only be give a "details" or "genuine" grade...  However, if it is very light or old, they could overlook it as part of circulation, or grade it down a bit instead. It is subjective and depends on a lot of factors. This is another reason it might be good to get it certified imo. The dealer is biased, and since he is buying, he wants to pay as little as possible. A TPG is unbiased and has experts that will give you an fair opinion as to whether the scratch is enough to warrant a problem slab or not for the coin market. Edited by johnny54321
05/17/2010 9:55 pm
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
yeah, kind of what I figured. I'll probably just get it certified.. i'll be disappointed if it comes back in a "details" slab though.... cause then it's instantly not worth as much, and I spent the extra money to get it certified =(.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
F15 is where I'll put em. Cleaned? Possibly.
Who are you sending them to?
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Quote:
i'll be disappointed if it comes back in a "details" slab though.... cause then it's instantly not worth as much, and I spent the extra money to get it certified =(. That's the wrong way to look at it. You'd be better off getting that figured out now by submitting it, then after you sell it raw as "problem free", and then the buyer decides to return it after he feels you ripped him off. The coin will definitely sell more in a "details" slab, than raw with a problem, and you can prove that it's authentic. |
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Valued Member
United States
75 Posts |
i suppose you're right Johnny, but it's doubtful that I'm selling on ebay anyways.. although I guess in a slab it might make it a bit easier to go that route. I'll probably go with ANACS, just because they seem to have the easiest submission form for someone that isn't a member or whatever. |
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Replies: 24 / Views: 3,560 |
Posted 04/30/2010 06:57 am
