What Do You Consider A "Complete" Set

I think that you're correct => "you can say that your set is complete, whenever you want, because it is YOUR set" ... however, I guess one man's complete is another man's bare-bones, right? (it depends upon the amount of cash you have to spend on your hobby, combined with the degree of OCD you have in your head) ... it drives some people insane staring at that empty coin-slot, whereas a collector that has no means of ever collecting the 6 figure coin may be able to smile and think => "I did it, It's now complete!"

A full set is every date and mintmark of that denomination that was intended for circulation.

(Well, in my opinion it is!)

This subject came up not to long ago and I've got it worse using Whitman Classic Albums for Lincoln Cents. Slots for 22 no D, 55 Double Die, 72 Double Die, 95 Double Die. Not sure about other company's Albums but also the large and small 60's, 70S's, all the 82's and I made my own page for all 20 of the 2009's. They do the same with almost all coins were they put in a slot for coins 99% of the world just can't get them.
Hopefully Whitman will never make a Lincoln Cent Album based on Daughtrey's book. Then an Album would be about 100 pages thick.
For me I try to fill all slots in all Albums to make it appear complete. BUT in some instances I fake it. For example for a 1894S Dime I just put in a photo of one glued to cardboard.

I consider a complete set a set with all years and mintmarks, maybe with the essai but this does not apply to US coins.
Varieties are nicebut not necessary.

I don't collect all the varieties, so my Dansco albums are missing a few coins, however I consider them complete. For Example: I will keep my eye open, but I will probably never get a 1942 "2 over 1" Mercury dime.

Where to start?
My primary focus is the Australian $1 minted by the Royal Australian Mint. I do not collect the Perth Mint offerings, primarily because they are often a different size and are not circulating coinage. I collect all RAM circulating, non-circulating legal tender mintmarked, counterstamped, privymarked, sterling silver and proof $1 coins. Throw in a circulating mule and a proof mule and there you have my 'complete' set of Australia $1.

I also have an extensive collection of $1 error coins. I can throw together numerous 'repeatable' errors. Most have exactly the same error, but may differ in die decay. On some you can nearly see the progression of the die's decline. I don't consider these as varieties which need to be added to my 'primary' collection. I'll give you an example: I don't consider the USA 1955 double die 1 cent as a 'variety. It is an error. Make no mistake, I would love one, but IMHO, it is not necessary for completeness.

Having said that, I agree that each collector will have a different opinion as to what 'complete' means. Each to their own.

I think there are several levels of "completness". Let us say one wants to collect coins specified as e.g. "Australian 20 cent" or "Polish 2zl".

The first level is the "designs" level. The collection is complete if it has all the designs in, at least one specimen for each design.

The second level is "years". Each design should be present one specimen for every year the coin was minted.

The third level: "metal & dice" - as above including proof/unc versions and versions stuck on different blanks e.g. Cu/Ni, silver, gold.

The fourth level: "varieties" - include die varieties.

The final level: "errors" - ultimately hard to complete as some of the major errors are unique (as for example the coin in my avatar is).

An interesting point of view, Murazor.


I love it! My plan is to place a Weak-D or a very worn 1922-D in that hole. I refuse to spend more for this coin that I will for my 1914-D.