1900 O Morgan Fake, Should I Be Happy With Just A Refund.

BS. Fakes are rarely if ever made of steel. Yes for a BRIEF time the Chinese counterfeiters were using an alloy that was magnetic that may have contained some iron or a high nickel content, but they very quickly got away from that alloy because it was so easily identifiable.



Actually their better fakes they do make from the proper alloys. And the fack that it is not magnetic does not indicate that it is silver. Could be plated, could be a zinc or tin alloy, or coppernickel (There are even various stainless steel alloys that are not magnetic.). A coppernickel zinc alloy (German Silver)looks a LOT like silver and is not magnetic. It looks enough like silver that when Feuchtwanger was importing his metal back in the 1830's he kept having problems with customs insisting it was silver and requiring him to pay the import duties due on silver. A coin that is magnetic when it shouldn't be DOES indicate a fake, but not being magnetic when it shouldn't be doesn't prove anything.



Die clashes are common on EVERY year of Morgan dollar. And since the design on each years pair of dies are the same, when the dies come together you are going to get the same or very similar dies clashes. This is why you can't use a die clash to identify a die variety. Coins struck from a pair of dies before they clash, after they clash, and after the clashmarks wear away or are polished away are all the same die variety. They are just different die stages of that variety.

Lets assume that the measurements as given are correct, the measuring instruments are properly calibrated & there was no operator error. Lets further assume that the date position clearly indicates the coin is a fake. In that case the coin is without a doubt a counterfeit. Scary.

I am curious to know why the 90% Kennedy that was used as a reference point for the silver test failed the test.

Ending a relationship is always tough, especially a long term one. You've got my sympathy.

Thanks trdhrdr007 it is hard, as for why the 90 percent (Some symbols are not working on my keyboard) Kennedy also dissolved but a little slower. I'm going to research.

Not only that, a gubmint will err in the direction of too heavy, because it's good business. Lots of ASE are slightly overweight. If a similar amount were underweight, buyers around the world would stop buying them immediately.

Too small? I've seen hundreds of thousands of rounds, dollars, ASE, etc. I've seen lots of privately struck rounds that were smaller than standard, but they were thicker, and correct weight--just the maker's choice of container dimensions. ASE are wider, but thinner, than most private rounds.

I've never seen a dollar in a stack that had a smaller diameter, unless it was PMD from someone starting a coin ring or the like. Not one ever.

So now it seems fairly well established that someone is selling fakes, if not deliberately, at least wrecklessly. Someone who always seems to have all the keys in stock at very reasonable prices.

One question I ask my fellow ccf posters: If you were going to do body work on wrecks to try to pass them off as nice cars, would you practice on Fords and Chevys or Rolls and Ferrari? Your answer should hint at why anyone would fake common dates.

https://goccf.com/t/94715

In this related thread, note where fakers were making better MS silver quarters than the mint twenty five years ago. Not a couple, but dozens of rolls. Any TPG will tell you they're even doing a good job on proof surfaces.

With this in mind, how hard do you think it is to make circs, or make uncs and wear them as desired?

Like I've said, 80% of all buyers will not return a coin, and the bad guys depend on this. Always return fake or overgraded, and complain to the venue (ebaY, CW, NN, USPS, etc) when possible.

There's no reason for anyone to do something until they are aware there is a problem.

I just erased 20 min of writing because of 1893s wonderful way of calling this Absolute Nonsense! I'll be honest and say this kinda angers me! But it has some truth to it. Sure its nonsense to try and recover your money after a year, but being he was so willing to do so, Only after a confusing process in how you can contact him. I'm sure most people who work up the nerve to contact this seller give up because its set up to deter people, The way he has it set up, you must enter a recent item number or click on a tab that says something along the lines of, This has nothing to do with any transaction. I sat wondering for a moment ? Then I chose to click on the other reason not transaction related, and wrote I bought this on so and so, my item number didn't work. It has been a year but I just noticed it was fake. I don't think the fact that its common matters much. I bought what I could afford! Paid more because of the high grade, A high grade anything is appealing, And like BiggFredd wrote, I felt bad contacting him about the lack of appeal the replacement had, and yes I still gave him 100 percent feed back. Why because I didn't want to be the guy who ruins a high feedback. He's a good sales man and has you believe its his employees that must of made the mistake. He gave me that personal attention, with a great speech that won me over. I cant make an excuse for my lack of experience. So when It was nothing like the coin I bid on, I was just happy to get a real coin. Or so I thought. How you can call this complete nonsense is beyond me! Maybe you haven't bought a fake coin in 40 years but I'm sure your 40 years has left you a little desensitized.