| Author |
 Replies: 18 / Views: 4,114 |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
This is a 1938 DDD over S Buffalo nickel I think may need slabbing. According to "CherryPickers" this is the OMM1 variety. Hoping to see it grade at least a 64.    *** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. *** |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
7018 Posts |
Where did this coin come from?...How did you get it? Tell us more....Ple ASE |
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
2003 Posts |
I went to a coin show in the Philly area back in 1990, I think it was a Ramada Inn. I spotted it and couldn't pass it up for $35. Then I went to another table where I got duped on a counterfeit Trade dollar for $60. Then another vendor who had some Unc Jeffersons to fill some holes. I bought a bunch of them too and one of them turned out to be a 1946 D over Inverted D that I got for a quarter. I need to get it slabbed as well. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4680 Posts |
Nice one! MS64 sounds very possible. If you have any Verdicare I'd hit that spot on the reverse rim above STATES before sending it in. Let us know the results.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
10284 Posts |
Your close-up has me curious. Isn't the D punched more than once as well?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
7618 Posts |
Nice coin.... shouldn't have any trouble scoring a 64 with it!
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3638 Posts |
Nice coin! MDS obverse, EMDS reverse, average strike for the date. Moderate die clashing and minimal die polishing to reduce the clashing. The "LIB" of LIBERTY / buffalo's right rear leg clash has some polishing on the obverse and a bit more on the reverse. The second feather / buffalo's head clash has been polished moderately on the obverse and heavily on the reverse. The Indian's neck / buffalo's back clash is unpolished. The Indian's hairline / ground level clash is unpolished. The key markers are all visible. In terms of technical grade, the obverse has minimal contact marks. the heaviest is an E-W scratch in the hair straight west of the eye. There is another small contact mark in the hair below the feather tie. The obverse should come in at MS-66. The reverse has more contact marks. There is a nick above the "E" in FIVE, a couple contact marks in the field below the beard, a scratch on the buffalo's horn, and a scratch near the fork of the tail. I see the reverse as MS-65+. The blended grade should be on the MS-65+/MS-66 fence. I would net it to MS-66, but a TPG might see the net grade as MS-65. IMHO, PCGS in particular seems a bit reluctant to award plus grades for this date, and it may come in at MS-65, rather than 65+. Raw, on a bourse floor, it would easily be seen as MS-66. I don't see a TPG making an eye appeal adjustment to the technical grade here. MS-66 is by far the most common grade for 1938-D Buffs. They were saved in quantity, and were readily available in full bags in the 1960s and in UNC rolls well into the 1980s. Even the RPMs and OMMs are common to MS-66. One caution with this coin is the small corrosion spot on the reverse rim at 12:00. That could cause problems down the road. Again, nice one! |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
FortCollins, You sound quite well versed about Buffalo nickels and your assessment is encouraging. What is your opinion about what I should do about that rim spot? After quite a struggle, my pictures are getting better but one thing these pics fail to show clearly is the blazing luster. I have to find a better lighting solution. |
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
2333 Posts |
Quote:
FortCollins, You sound quite well versed about Buffalo Nickels He's the Go-To Guy on here IMO Nice nick! smat |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3638 Posts |
Most people will advise using pure commercial-grade acetone (not mixtures with impurities, like nail polish remover) to loosen the surface gunk. From the greenish color, I suspect this may be the start of actual corrosion. I don't know of any real cure for that, and coins can continue to deteriorate in slabs. It doesn't look like anything from contact with a PVC flip, because the rest of the surfaces look great.
One additional thing I would like to confirm about your coin. I am assuming that the line at the obverse rim from the first feather to the LI of LIBERTY is raised, rather than incuse. It definitely looks raised from the pics. It is a very common area for metal flow lines, which are just part of the striking process with an overly complex design, high striking pressure, and a hard metal. If the line is incuse, there is a different concern with the coin, and it would definitely impact grade. An incuse line could be from a coin rolling machine from wrapping a roll of coins.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
You are correct, the line is raised as if an imperfection in the die. So would you suggest I leave that rim spot alone? I really don't want to mess with this coin at all. FortCollins, you my friend are indeed an "Expert"! I thank you all sincerely!
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4680 Posts |
I take it you don't have any Verdicare? If not, as FC said, attempt acetone, which probably won't do much or anything. It does look like the start of corrosion to me as well. I have great results with xylene on spots like these. Just soak a q-tip and lightly roll over that area of the rim. I'd personally do it before it gets any heavier, especially if it's going into a slab, but that's just me.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3638 Posts |
@MisterT, I'm no expert. I'm just an oldster who has roamed with the Buffs for a long time. My wife says I'm half buffalo, but she won't tell me which half.  @Ty2020b is a Buff collector with a lot of expertise, and is correct, the spot is better addressed sooner rather than later. Be very careful handling xylene. It is both flammable and toxic. If you use xylene, do it outdoors, in a well ventilated space, and well away from any ignition source. Stand upwind from it. Pure xylene is much more potent than its derivatives, mineral spirits and paint thinner. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4680 Posts |
Fortcollins is just being modest, he's certainly THE Buffalo expert and a huge asset to CCF.  Read and reread his breakdowns and you'll gain a world of knowledge. Heed his advice, I've had a few nasty headaches from the stuff. If it is the start of corrosion, xylene should pull off what your seeing but may reveal a red/brown spot underneath from the affected copper in the nickel, depending on the extent of it. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
Thanks Folks! You people are AWESOME!
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1694 Posts |
|
| |
Replies: 18 / Views: 4,114 |
Posted 04/02/2021 10:23 pm
