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1925-S Buffalo Nickel Grading Thoughts - Mismatched Die States

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1buff2many's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2022  11:20 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add 1buff2many to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I would appreciate some help/thoughts on the grading of this 1925-S Buffalo nickel, that I recently came across. I do enjoy getting some good examples of mismatched die states and thought this one was a nice example. Thinking middle die state (MDS) on the obverse and very late die state (VLDS) on the reverse. Got a pretty good deal because of the VLDS and questionable mint mark but could trace it to a bit earlier later die state example where the S is more distinguishable.

1925-S-Buffalo-Nickel-Grading-Thoughts---Mismatched-Die-States
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panzaldi's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2022  08:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i never new this before I joined CCF but Buff's are one of the more difficult series to grade due to all the issues with the dies. I'm not an expert by no means but have learned a lot from fortcollins. you really need to know what happened each year in this series to accurately assess these. especially the early pieces.

the only guess I can make without knowing a lot about this year is the reverse looks F12 and obverse looks VF25. with what appears to be a reverse VLDS how do you net the grade out? do you grade by the obv, the rev or a net grade? I'm going to say F15+ and hopefully FC will chime in and give us some insight.
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Coinfrog's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2022  09:20 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'll say F-12.
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T-BOP's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2022  11:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add T-BOP to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm with panzaldi as far as not knowing about the different die states of Buffalo nickels . So I don't know if this coin should be net graded or not . F-12 seems about right .
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IndianGoldEagle's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2022  12:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add IndianGoldEagle to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think this one will get graded by the obverse due to the weak strike reverse. I'm at VF-20 on this one.
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fortcollins's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2022  9:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fortcollins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Fantastic coin! There are at least two die pairings of 1925-S with this degree of mismatch. One is the well known 2F, and this is the other.

The strike is actually fairly good, especially for San Francisco in the 1920s. The obverse shows two complete ribbons, a full but weak rachis and calamus on the second feather, most of the rachis on the first feather, a solid feather tie, and sharp detail on the nostril and lips. I agree with MDS for the obverse, and not far from EMDS.

The reverse has two issues. I would call the reverse die state LDS/VLDS (note the comparatively strong STATES). There is heavy clash polishing, which obliterates the hair on the buffalo's head and much of the buffalo's back and EPU. The front right and rear right legs are partly abraded, and the overpolishing of the front right leg continued into the mm and CENTS. The obverse die does not show this degree of clashing, so the damage was done by the earlier obverse die.

Grading has to be done exclusively from the obverse. There is clear some wear on the high points of the forehead, cheek, knot, hair above the knot, braid, ribbons, date, and lower portions of the first and second feathers. That said, there is clear distinction between the hair and the cheek, some definition of the two braids, some detail on the knot, and decent detail in the hair. These are consistent with a mid-AU coin.

I'm on the bubble between AU-53 and AU-55 here.

Absolutely wonderful example.
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numismatic student's Avatar
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 Posted 07/09/2022  12:09 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add numismatic student to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'll go xf45. I see many 20s s-mints with obliterated reverses getting high grades. The dies wore very fast, but I'm not one who sees die wear clearly apart from circulation wear. It's a little bit of a crapshoot for me not really knowing what I'm doing grading these.
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panzaldi's Avatar
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 Posted 07/09/2022  07:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
schooled again by FC. thank you for your sharing your knowledge. I never would have put this in the range of an AU coin and a lesson to all thinking about collecting this series. applying a grade based on knowledge of other series is not going to do you well with these.
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1buff2many's Avatar
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 Posted 07/09/2022  08:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 1buff2many to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you so much to all on the grading feedback on this nickel, I know it is more challenging with the mismatch die states. Really appreciate the detailed breakdown from fortcollins, so helpful to learn from.
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panzaldi's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  07:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
the big question is would a TPG grade this coin as an AU coin? if they pass it to a general grader that did not have this knowledge of dies, polishing and special insight into the date and mint to understand this coin would they be able to accurately grade it?

inquiry minds want to know...
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fortcollins's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  10:49 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fortcollins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
@panzaldi, Not a chance. PCGS and NGC struggle with Buffs generally. On a good day with an average Buff, PCGS and NGC will be spot on or in the ballpark. On the die state/strike/abraded Buffs, they are better with die state than strike weakness, but absolutely awful with abraded die varieties. ANACS does better than PCGS or NGC with Buffs in general, but also struggles with the abraded die varieties and the more extreme strike or die state coins.

My practice with the tougher Buffs was either to leave them raw or ship them to ANACS for authentication and attribution, and bourse floor haggle the grade.

EDIT: The big problem is that the big three look too much at the appearance of the coin. The grade should reflect the state of preservation, in other words how does the coin look now compared to when it left the mint? Weak strikes, late die states, and abraded die varieties looked just like that when they were minted. The only issue the TPG should focus on is how much of what they are seeing happened after the coin left the mint. Finally, the big three don't just undergrade Buffs. They also overgrade many of them.

EDIT EDIT (last one, I promise): The TPGs also struggle with the other hard-to-grade series, like the SLQs.
Edited by fortcollins
07/10/2022 11:03 am
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Zurie's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  11:41 am  Show Profile   Check Zurie's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Zurie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It's always an education reading a @fortcollins analysis about Buffalo nickels. I'm sure he has forgotten more than I will ever know about them.
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panzaldi's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  12:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add panzaldi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
FC thanks for that insight and is what I was thinking. the sad part is when you have a coin like this that should be valued as an AU coin very few collectors will look at this coin and be willing to pay AU money as they, like TPG's, are only looking at the appearance and what appears to be wear and has little or no knowledge of what we are discussing here.

so where does that leave the collector of this series? if they have the this knowledge they can build an above average collection at a below average price but would then have to settle for what the market says they are so you would never be able to capitalize on that knowledge

i hope that everyone on CCF who are purchasing coins in this series are following these comments so that they understand what they are buying. I guess the good news is that if you purchase, lets say this coin, at F or VF $$, you should be able to get F or VF $$ for it if and when you sell it. no loss no foul even though the coin has far more value

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Zurie's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  12:58 pm  Show Profile   Check Zurie's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Zurie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
no loss no foul even though the coin has far more value


I think you could say the coin has a far higher technical grade, but since value is determined by what people would pay, not necessarily far more value.
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fortcollins's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  3:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fortcollins to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Apologies in advance, but I'm going to wander a little bit here.

The Buffalo nickel series is one of the most complex series of coins, but also one of the shortest. Churchill described Russia as "a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma." That describes the Buff series, too.

Think about this:
It is one of the most cluttered coin designs attempted (excluding some of the classic commemoratives).
The two branch mints had exactly one year experience striking nickel coinage before tackling the Buff. San Francisco only had four years of experience with minor coins (1909 Lincoln Cent) and Denver had only two years with minor coins (1911 Lincoln Cent).
Denver and San Francisco hated producing minor coins anyway, believing they had been created to strike gold and silver coins only.
All three mints had different equipment with different striking pressure and different levels of production floor experience.
The mints absolutely hated the design because of the production difficulties.
The Liberty nickel was easy to strike, with relatively low striking pressure. Dies had long lives. Not so with the Buff.
The public immediately complained about the new coins: they didn't stack correctly, the denomination wore off too quickly, the date wore off too quickly. This led to repeated design changes.
In just 25 years, there were nine different obverse designs and two major reverse designs.
Alloy issues, especially during WW I, led to surface pitting, discoloration, and laminations.
Strike quality varied widely by mint and by year.
The cluttered design transferred far too easily when dies clashed. There was no easy manual for fixing the clashing. Aggressive die polishing led to a ridiculously large array of abraded die varieties: missing feathers, missing designer's initial, missing legs, missing horns, orange peeled backs, and more.
Philadelphia made all of the dies. Philadelphia also had the most modern coin presses. That meant Philadelphia could replace its worn dies easily, and didn't fret about extending die life beyond functional use.
The branch mints had to make do with what Philadelphia sent them. Extending die life could only be done two ways: reduce striking pressure and producing pancakes or running the dies past terminal stage. They did both.
The branch mints, in particular, swapped out one die at a time. The ridiculous mismatched dies (like the OPs coin) are the result.
It is believed, but not confirmed, that the branch mints put back in to production reverse dies (the anvil dies) across multiple years. If so, this may explain some of the pitting seen on dies. It may also explain why some reverse die markers and varieties seem to appear in multiple years. A full die study is needed.
There are a few coins that are seen from time to time with unusually sharp individual design elements. Did the branch mints re-engrave design elements to extend die life? (Re-engraved Lincoln Cents exist, but mostly in the 1930s to 1950s. One of the CCF contributors discovered a new re-engraved Lincoln business strike from the early 1950s just a year or so ago.)
For a short series, the number of DDOs and DDRs and RPMs are staggering. Two of the DDOs are major coins needed for any complete collection, the 1918/1917-D and 1916. The 1916 is almost a set stopper for most collectors.
The short series also has its mysteries. For example, is the 1914 with spikes in and around the date the result of hub defects, master die damage, doubled hubbing, or doubled working dies? Is it another DDO overdate, or not? (Ron Pope believes that it is. Dr. Wiles is still examining the coins and hasn't definitively taken a position.) For what it's worth, I don't think it is.
The series has one rare coin (1916 DDO), several scarce coins, and some staggering condition rarities.
For nearly every date, coins meeting four specific criteria are exceptionally difficult to find: (a) well struck examples (b) with matching EDS dies (c) minimal die clashing and little or no die polishing (d) in higher grades (AU-55 and up). As Ron Pope notes, a truly fully struck business strike coin likely is nonexistent.

Collectors have barely scratched the surface of the extent of a possible complete Buff collection. With all that, there are not that many Buff collectors around, and far fewer who collect the varieties. And even with that, there is a very small supply of coins to meet the demand.

And with that, I'll retreat to my curmudgeon's corner and watch baseball.
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kbbpll's Avatar
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 Posted 07/10/2022  3:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kbbpll to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Interesting read. Amazing that the mint hadn't learned its lesson from the 1892 quarter, which also came out of the gate not stacking properly and immediately got a new reverse design. Barber was still in charge for the buffalo. You'd think with any new coin design, they'd go "hey, let's try stacking these", but I guess not. I don't know the history so maybe Barber warned them that it wasn't going to work and got overridden.
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